the underside of fashion
by Douglas Messerli
Robert Alman and Barbara Shulgasser (screenplay),
Robert Altman (director) Prêt-à-porter (Ready to Wear) / 1994
It’s interesting to rewatch a Robert Altman film
from 1994 which received almost universally negative reviews when it originally
appeared, from the vantage point of 31 years later, when that director’s
cinematic legacy as one of the most significant auteurs of his time is pretty
much established.
The
critics didn’t much like Prêt-à-porter, the English language title Ready
to Wear added, one suspects, when the execs and distributors grew fearful
that US audiences would stay away from a French-titled film. Audiences in the
US and Canada weren’t convinced by the English title either. The film made
money only because of its international sales.

Altman’s
films, with their fast-moving series of seemingly unrelated events involving
huge casts of often internationally acclaimed actors who often speak quietly on
the sidelines or are filmed in conversations going on simultaneously with
others, with even those sometimes chopped up and collaged, have never thoroughly
been embraced by the American public. And, in this case, critics cited a series
of what they felt to be failures: 1) The film “finds absolutely nothing funny
or fresh to say about the fashion industry and the ‘journalists’ who cover it
with a wet kiss.” (Gene Siskell); 2) “There is a difference between creative
improvisation and absolute chaos, and while [others of his] films were
delicately balanced balls that magically stayed in the air, Ready to Wear…has
a haphazard 'Let's go to Paris and see what happens' feeling that wastes
everyone's time and talent." (Kenneth Turan, the Los Angeles Times);
“Virtually everything that happens is held up for our ridicule, yet it's never
quite clear what we're supposed to be laughing at. The characters aren't really
mocked for their attitudes, their obsessions with glamour and money and style.
They aren't savaged in any specific, observational ways that could truly be
called satirical. They're made fun of simply because they're silly, trivial
human beings—walking punchlines in a joke that never arrives.” (Owen Gleiberman
in Entertainment Weekly).
In sum, Ready
to Wear was seen as a plotless mess without characters well-developed
enough to sustain any real satirical focus.
Fashion
critic Suzy Menkes, representing people in the industry at the center of the
film’s focus, similarly argued, “For fashion folks, the film just didn't come
off—either as an extended skit, or as a bitchy or brutal dissection of the
industry."
I’ll
grant that this film perhaps takes an even more of a scattergun approach to its
subject than most of his other films which cover vast groups of individuals such
as the US medical military services in Korea (M*A*S*H), the mythological
figures of the American West (McCabe and Mrs. Miller, 1971 and Buffalo Bill and the Indians, 1976), the country-western music
scene (Nashville, 1975), heterosexual marriage between those from vastly
different social stations (A Wedding, 1978) the disappearing British
gentry (Gosford Park, 2001), or the last survivors of radio
entertainment (A Prairie Home Companion, 2006), to name only a few of
his comic foci.
But Ready
to Wear is actually not so very different from all the others in which
almost all of which one or several individuals suddenly meet their death which
causes those surrounding them to quickly perceive their lives beginning to
unravel, revealing to nearly all the others of their immediate society how
empty and unhappy they are in their desperate attempts to seek, maintain,
change, or redeem love, social stature, their ability to communicate with
others, their daily survival, and even their ability to sustain their sanity.
Altman’s
works are never merely satires, a genre which demands a far sharper, meaner,
laser-beam focus than his friendlier buckshot approach allows. Rather, Altman
is the late 20th-century Feydeau, a writer of farces, without any attempt to
keep to the format of Feydeau’s or even Moliere’s well-made plays. I like how
critic Adrian Martin describes his comic approach, characterizing it as
something that “floats like mist” throughout what I might describe as the vast
battleground in which his characters fight in their struggles to maintain what
I described above: love, social stature, communication and sanity. Martin
writes:
“Altman has a
strange way with comedy. He is not into precisely timed visual gags the way
Blake Edwards is; and he steers clear of the Woody Allen style of carefully
crafted, rapidly delivered one-liners. Altman likes his comic mood to float
weirdly above the film like a mist. It is a comedy of interactions, of
behaviours. Sometimes this can create a quietly insane, infectious flavour, as
in his previous withering ode to Americans in Paris, the underrated psychiatric
comedy Beyond Therapy (1987).
Sometimes
in his comedies Altman will use a funny anecdote as the basis for an ongoing
plot thread: we see, in snatches, characters doing something mysterious for
almost two hours, and then finally some kind of explanatory punch-line. That is
how it goes in Prêt-à-Porter with the
endless scenes of Louise (Teri Garr) shopping for clothes in Paris, all the
while making strange communications with her husband Major Hamilton (Danny
Aiello) [whose character, a buyer for the Chicago Marshall Fields stores, who
is secretly a cross-dresser].
Altman
stretches this kind of material out so far and so thinly at times that the
punch-line can come as an anti-climax, an indifferent tag. Short Cuts
used this kind of deflatory, anti-climactic effect in a very inspired and
expressive way; it went very well with the general emotional malaise of
everybody and everything in the film….”
Accordingly, there is always the danger that the simple-minded
viewer—the condition in which Altman places nearly all of his audience
members—won’t even pick up on the final connection of events. In Prêt-à-Porter,
several of the critics missed the clues. Writing in Newsweek, David
Ansen, for example, asks “Why, having staged the humiliation of three
high-and-mighty fashion editors (Linda Hunt, Sally Kellerman and Tracey Ullman)
at the hands of a smugly sadistic photographer (Stephen Rea), does Altman prepare
us for their revenge—and forget to show it?”
Actually, we do very much see the results of
their revenge for Milo O'Brannigan having tricked each of them by snapping
uncompromising photographs. Sally Kellerman’s character steals his negatives
and forces him to negotiate with them, ending O'Brannigan’s
career as a noted fashion photographer; at the end of the film we see him
photographing a group of babies, evidently the only subjects now available for
his formerly salacious camera.

Problems of connecting up the pieces in an
Altman film are problematic to any reviewer. And who can blame anyone observing
the battlefield of this Altman film from afar with a cast that includes Anouk
Aimée, Marcello Mastroianni, Sophia Loren, Kim Basinger, Stephen Rea, Lauren
Bacall, Julia Roberts, Tim Robbins, Lili Taylor, Sally Kellerman, Tracey Ullman,
Linda Hunt, Rupert Everett, Forest Whitaker, Richard E. Grant, Danny Aiello, Teri
Garr, Lyle Lovett, Jean Rochefort, Michel Blanc, Jean-Pierre Cassel, Ute Lemper,
Anne Canovas, François Cluzet,—not to even mention the cameo appearances of
fashion figures and designers Jean-Paul Gaultier and Björk modeling for him,
Thierry Mugler, Sonia Rykiel, Christian LaCroix, Gianfranco Ferré, and Issey
Miyake, and models such as Christy Turlington, Helena Christensen, Adriana
Karembeu, Linda Evangelista, Claudia Schiffer, Carla Bruni, Naomi Campbell and
Tatjana Patitz, along with actors Cher and Harry Belafonte? Our eyes are so
busy trying to connect up names with the characters, that entire elements of
the constantly shifting narrative often go unnoticed.
Is it
any wonder that many of these characters become mere types, moreover, and that
almost all lack full, old-fashioned characterization? Altman is not an
old-fashioned filmmaker, happy as he is to leave out plot and often character
development. Improvisation is his game, and only if the actors are up to the
role he assigns them and are given enough screen time to delineate their
characters can we expect them to transcend stereotypes of even their assigned
position in the whole of things.
At the center of this societal kerfuffle is
the wealthy, elegant, and totally aloof beauty Isabella de la Fontaine (Sophia
Loren) who happens to be married to the head of the Paris Fashion Week (the
occasion for our massive gathering), Olivier de la
Fontaine (Jean-Pierre Cassel). It is his sudden death—from chocking on a
ham sandwich he is nervously devouring—in a taxi occupied by an unknown man who
is presumed to be his murderer that sets everyone and everything in the film
into a frenzy. Part of the frenzy revolves around the fact that almost everyone
hated Olivier, particularly his wife Isabella, who blithely admits to the
busybody detectives, Inspectors Tantpis (Jean Rochefort) and Forget (Michel
Blanc), that she is delighted for her husband’s demise.
The
suspected murderer is, in fact, Isabella’s first husband, Sergio (Marcello
Mastrioianni), long thought to be dead and who years before as a Communist in
trouble with Italian authorities left behind the fourteen or fifteen-year-old Isabella
and escaped to the Soviet Union where he has had lived ever since.
Altman
and his co-writer never bother to fully explain why he has determined at this very
moment to return to the West and reconnect with Isabella, with whom he is still
very much in love; all we know is that he has contacted Olivier, perhaps
bribing him with the fact that Isabella is still married to him (now named
Sergei) pointing out that Olivier, accordingly, is guilty of bigamy. In any
event, the two men arrange to meet up, Sergei purchasing two matching Christian
Dior ties in Moscow and mailing one to Olivier so that the two might recognize
one another at the airport.
It is there, after a brief interview Olivier
is forced to undergo with Kitty Potter (Kim Basinger) of Fab TV—whose
Texas-twanged inane questions are the true connecting link to most of the
fashion figures of the film—where he and Sergei escape in the taxi in which
Olivier chokes to death.
Sergei
flees, escaping without proper clothing, having dived into a river in order to
escape. With the death of Olivier he also has no place to live and no money,
requiring him throughout most of of the film to break into various other
guest’s rooms to steal clothing and, at one point, to take over a room itself
until he can meet up with his beloved Isabella.
When the
two finally manage do meet and make a date which ends in his purloined hotel
bedroom, Altman symbolically represents their past in an homage to film history, by evoking the striptease scene between
Loren and Mastroianni from their 1963 film Yesterday, Today
and Tomorrow. Here the actors momentarily take over the characters, until
the now older figures (both actors and characters are brought back into focus
when in her attempt to sexually arouse her now elderly first husband, she
realizes that he also a dead man whom she can do without, particularly when he
falls asleep in the midst of her seduction. Loren leaves a note beside his
snoring body hinting that she has no room in her life for two dead husbands.

Surely
closer to the dead man was his mistress Simone Lowenthal
(Anouk Aimée), who heads the house of Lo. It is to Simone that the members of
the fashion world present their condolences, even though she admits, later in
the film, that Olivier was a hard to man to love. Even more slimy than her
lover, however, is her handsome but needy son, Jack (Rupert Everett), who not
only is having an affair with the sister Kiki behind his wife’s Dane’s (Georgianna
Robertson) back, but who has just sold his mother’s company without her
knowledge to a Texas bootmaker, Clint Lammeraux (Lyle Lovett) whose head
designer is the color blind Slim Chrysler (Lauren Bacall).
When the
time comes to prepare for her runway show, Simone finds that her dresses, like
the male suits and pants stolen by Sergei, are also missing from her racks, “borrowed”
for a photo shoot by the new triumvirate of Jack, Clint, and Slim, who have
hired the equally sleazy photographer O'Brannigan, I mentioned above, to
accompany the boots, now labeled “Lo,” with which they’ve willy-nilly stuck
upon her model’s shapely feet and legs.
As I have
already argued, there isn’t much of a plot to interconnect most of the rest of
the vast cast characters. The rest are basically ancillary figures of the
fashion world who we meet through their homage to Simone or the through the often
banal questions and musings of Bassinger’s character Kitty.
As I have
already argued, there isn’t much of a plot to interconnect most of the rest of
the vast cast characters. The rest are basically ancillary figures of the
fashion world who we meet through their homage to Simone or the through the often
banal questions and musings of Bassinger’s character Kitty.
The black
“street” designer Cy Bianco (Forest Whitaker) is the most outspoken in his
hatred of Simone’s former lover. He is a gay man in a relationship with his
male assistant, but who is having a very hot affair with the prissy fellow
fashion designer Cort Romney (Richard E. Grant) who is publicly devout to his
female assistant, but almost faints in a fit of ecstasy at hearing Cy’s voice
in secret telephone recontres.
Both Cy
and Cort’s assistants meanwhile are seeing one another on the sly as well, all
trysts finally revealed at Cy’s “runway” show held in an underground subway,
where they all accidentally meet up in a subway car where each couple has been
making out; there they are unknowingly stalked down for an interview by our
endlessly dense Kitty of Fab TV who hasn’t a clue that with her meaningless banter
that she is interrupting their mutual peccadilloes.
Completely
out of this incestuous loop are two US news reporters, Anne Eisenhower (Julia
Roberts) and Joe Flynn (Tim Robbins), both of whom are forced to share a room
that Joe was just checking out of and Anne checking into when
their respective editors called demanding more information about Olivier de la
Fontaine’s death. Anne, wearing only a tee-shirt declaring her as the “World’s
Greatest Mom,” has lost her baggage in Houston, forgetting it in an airport
bar.
While Joe
is on the phone with his editor, Sergei, desperate for clothing, steals his clothes
bag.
In short,
neither Anne or Joe have anything to wear outside of the room they have been
forced to share. He phones his reports in, quoting from local TV reports by
Paris newscasters, while Anne watches the run-way shows on TV as well. But
then, neither of them attend much to their jobs since Joe soon discovers that
Anne is a lush, the two of them finding their consolation for being trapped together
in a shared bed. In fact, they are the only two lovers who are free to
absolutely make love, being as they are locked away in a world apart from
others while also knowing that after Paris, they will never see each other
again, both presumably returning home to their married lives. It’s almost as if
they were living out a Parisian version of the Las Vegas slogan, “What happens
in Vegas , stays in Vegas.”

Sergei’s desperate search for something to
wear and Anne and Joe’s lack of clothing, in fact, become a strange sub-theme
in this film that is supposedly all about dressing up in the most fashionable
of costumes. And these three outsiders, Sergei, Anne, and Joe come eventually
to represent the real world outside of the Paris Fashion Week with its quite
ridiculous runway sashays and trots.
At one
point, these outsiders’ point of view is actually trumpeted out from the Paris
fashion world, as Kitty races over to interview Cher at the Bulgari jewelry
party. Asked the most empty-minded of questions concerning what she feels about
the attending the Bulgari party, Cher improvises in a somewhat predictable
manner: “Well actually I don’t think it’s what you put on your body, but what’s
inside your body that really matters.”
Altman
claims that he found Cher’s somewhat inane remark to be the perfect link to his
basic theme, which is finally played out in some of the last few marvelous
moments of this film.
Since Simone
Lowenthal’s business and her new season’s styles have been equally usurped, she
announces at the beginning of her runway show—where most of the audience in
attendence is now expecting a peek at both her clothes and the new Texas boots—that
her presentation will represent a kind of “circle,” a “closure of sorts,” a
look into what may be “emerging.”
To
everyone’s shock her models slowly begin to stroll up and down the runway
entirely in the nude. Only one, the very pregnant Ute Lemper, while also naked,
is wearing a trailing bridal veil. Altman observed of the scene: “The actors
knew, but most of the audience didn’t so I got the surprise reactions I was
hoping for. Those women were wonderful. …Without that scene the whole film
probably wouldn’t make sense.”
To most
Americans, apparently, his movie still didn’t make sense, a confusion and
frustration made clear by Kitty.
The Fab
reporter runs out of the show to broadcast her startled reactions in what might
be described as a kind of public breakdown: “Well, what can I say? Simone Lo
has showed us everything. I don’t know if any of this will make it to TV
or not…. She showed us like it really is. It’s so old it’s true. It’s so true
it’s new. It’s the oldest new look. It’s the newest old look. Simone
Lo as created a new new look for every man, woman,
and child. And they can all afford it. It’s all the bare look. So hooray for
Simone Lo. What the hell am I talking about? What’s going on here on this
planet? This is fucking fruitcake time. Is that fashion, is it? Is there a message
out there? When you got a lot a naked people wandering around here. I mean,
I’ve been forever trying to find out what this bullshit is all about. You know
what, I have had it. I have had it! Goodbye, au revoir.”
Behind
her, the crowd is roaring their applause in a standing ovation, all of them
seeming to comprehend the message that the Texas bimbo Bassinger plays can’t
comprehend.
She
hands the microphone over to her French assistant Sophie Choiset (Chiara
Mastroianni) who basically argues that Simone Lowenthal is speaking for women
and sending a message to women of “not what to wear but how to
think of what they want and need from fashion.”
While
that is also not necessarily a truly profound message, it is surely an
alternative to the representations throughout of how women should dress in
order to appeal and attract other men and women or to demonstrate their social
status and their sense of well-being.
For, at
heart, what most of the characters of Altman’s movie really want is to do strip
off those clothes and crawl into bed with one another. If Roberts’ character
certainly does look great in the designer dress she has finally put on after
her suitcase is finally delivered up, she has spent one of the most memorable
weeks of her life perhaps in a hotel bathrobe.
One has
to admit, however, that Loren, attending her dead husband’s funeral in a black
dress with a red wrap, purse, and gigantic hat says a lot about the woman
wearing it. As Roberts in her Pretty Woman role of Vivian Ward might
express it, “Wow, that lady’s got class.”
Los Angeles, October 31, 2025
Reprinted from My Queer Cinema blog (October
2025).